It’s back to Scotland today.
We’re headed to the isle of Islay, ‘Queen of the Hebrides’, for our final round of golf on the trip and to sample the island’s well-respected whiskies. For the curious, ‘Islay’ is pronounced ‘Eye Lah’.
Can’t say enough good about the B&B in Portstewart we are leaving. J.J. and Marie run the family lodging business close to the Portstewart strand that also has a very popular cafe serving breakfast and pastries. Marie is a certified chef. Breakfasts were awesome – all local and natural products. It’s a great location too with quick access to the attractions of the causeway coast, ‘Game of Throne’ locations, world-class golf, Belfast and Londonderry.
Getting to Islay from Portstewart was the reverse of our path from the Kintyre Peninsula to Portstewart. Taxi from P.S. to Ballycastle, then the ‘Aquaholics’ boat to Port Ellen, Islay.
We’ve used the same driver, Stephen, while in Northern Ireland to shuttle us to/from courses and over to the Republic. An interesting guy and good fun. He worked as a guard in the Northern Ireland prison system and retired a few years ago. Most of his working years were during the ‘Troubles’ and he spent 10 years at the infamous ‘Maze’ prison. Can’t imagine.
We ended up with Davie again as the skipper of the Aquaholic vessel that ferried us from Ballycastle, N.I. to Port Ellen, Islay. It’s only about 22 nautical miles between the two towns (and countries) but took 1-1/2 hours plus due to the tides. A number of lighthouses lined the route – one of which is the only one in the world with the light at the bottom of the structure rather than the top. The route took us through waters which were the main arteries for WWI and WWII convoys from the states. German U-Boats had a field day. Many, many wartime shipwrecks in the waters.
Port Ellen is Islay’s main port. Port Ellen is a small, very attractive town with what appears to be a fairly busy harbor. Inbound views are great – the island’s malting facility and a number of distilleries line the coast with mountains in the background. We’re staying at the Islay Hotel, a short walk from the harbor.
In addition to a world-class golf course, ‘Machrie’, the Isle of Islay is probably best known for its peaty, smoky whiskies. Some say they are the best in the world. The island is home to nine working distilleries. Peat is cut from the mosslands to give ‘Islay malts’ their distinct flavors.
There is a 3-km walk, the ‘Three Distilleries Path’, which goes past the three distilleries on the south coast collectively known as the ‘Kildalton triumvirate’ – Laphroaig, Lagavulin & Ardbeg.
We took the path down to the first, Laphroaig. Laphroaig has a great ‘Friend of Laphroaig’ program. ‘Friends’ are granted a lifetime lease on a 1 ft x 1 ft plot of land in the mosslands adjacent to the distillery. I found my plot! Laphroaig has the reputation of being the ‘peatiest’ of whiskies. A flight tasting confirmed.
A short walk later is the Lagavulin Distillery. We took part in the ‘Warehouse Experience’, hosted by Lagavulin legend Ian McArthur. The ‘experience’ is a popular tour for whisky aficionados. Tastings straight from the cask. Nice.
Another sunny day in Scotland. Our luck continues.
Dram o’ the Day – Laphroaig 12
